Home Improvement, Remodeling and Repair @ Builders Websource. Home design software, advice, tools, videos, tech notes, links and more!

Search: 

Home Page | Books | BuildersTALK | Building a Dream | Green Building | Links | Software | Tech Notes | Tools | Contact

Messages and Online Forum Q&A

If you find the answer to this question useful, kindly CLICK TO PAY here.



Knowledge


BuildersTALK
Building|Dream
Green Building
How-To Books
Links (Web)
Newsletter
Tech Notes
Videos

Software


BeamChek
Bidding
CAD | AutoCAD
Estimating
EZHomeBuild
Home Design
Landscaping
Lighting Design
PrioSoft
Resi-Cost
Structural

Specialty Tools


CrackMON
Tools
WatrLevel

Support & Info


About Us
Advertise
Contact Us
FAQ
Publish
Services
Support

 

Re: Short Cantilevered Extension to Cement Porch

From: info@builderswebsource.com
Category: Decks
Remote Name: 63.198.181.43
Date: 27 May 2002
Time: 12:36 PM

Comments

You have a 3-foot-wide concrete porch across the front of your house, roughly 2 feet above grade. To provide additional clearance for deck chairs, you would like to expand the width by an additional 1.5 feet with a cantelevered wood extension. You would like to do this without adding intermediate posts as the frost line is 42" below grade. Assuming the foundation supporting the front portion of the concrete porch is filled solid (and hopefully reinforced with rebar), you can probably support the proposed cantelevered section with custom plate steel traiangular supports with flanges. The angle should be 45-degrees, which will help to transfer the load back to the foundation. The flanges should be bolted in several places to the foundation wall (you may need a concrete drill/roto hammer for this), and positioned in height such that the top of the wood decking is flush with the existing concrete deck. If the existing porch slopes, you'll need to take this into account when designing the angle supports. Alternatively, you may be able to build a similar structure out of pressure treated lumber. We would bolt on a 3x6 pressure-treated ledger (at least 6" above grade) on to the existing foundation, using 5/8" lag bolts every 12", staggered slightly. You'll need to use special concrete anchors specifically designed for this type of situation. Build out your supports at a 45-degree upward angle from the foundation and tie those into a front support beam. Similarly, add another ridge board just below the bottom of the existing concrete and build out straight supports. Using 3x6 should give you a plenty stout support structure. Then add your decking and front fascia as you normally would. Any deck must be designed for a 40 psf live load and 10-20 psf dead load, plus any expected snow loads. To make sure your deck doesn't sag, you'll need to build supports as often as necessary to support the required load and take out any springy feeling. Probably a 24" maximum span between supports is tops. These recommendations are illustrations only. You must ensure that any design you pursue is built to the highest safety standards that take into account the specific conditions of your home. If in doubt, contact a licensed structural engineer who can run calculations for you and recommend the quantity and size of steel or wood members. Builders Websource

 

Article Tools

BuildersTALK


Ask an Expert
Recent Questions
Click to Pay

Archives


2006-2007
Oct-Dec 2002
Jul-Sep 2002
Jan-Jun 2002
Jul-Dec 2001
Jan-Jun 2001
1999-2000

 

 


ASTM International